4 steps to 3D printing – The basics

Step 1 - Obtain or create your 3D models

Creating a 3D Model – Obtaining an Existing Model

In order to obtain models for free or for a fee, there are several platforms for exchanging or purchasing 3D models. We have provided you with a list of the exchange platforms we use most at the bottom of the page. Usually the first impression that any user performs is simply the famous “ Benchy ”.

This model allows you to get a good idea of ​​the quality of your printer and your settings without having to take too much time to prepare your model. It prints quickly and without adding supports.

Creation of a 3D model - Design of the part

Generally speaking, when we want to create a prototype or have a more personalized creation, we must go through the creation of our own 3D model. There are many software programs that allow you to create your models, such as Google SketchUp , Blender , and Fusion 360 .

At Efikeco, we use fusion 360 because we find it really comprehensive and quite easy to use. If you have any questions about this software, do not hesitate to contact us. There are also a good number of 3D printing oriented tutorials on YouTube including the Flashforge channel, which give opinions and advice on this software.

Creating a 3D model – 3D scanner

It is also possible to replicate a 3D part that already exists. We generally speak of reverse engineering. This reproduction can be done using a 3D scanner, a tool which is becoming more and more accessible and precise.

Once the model has been created with this method, it is advisable to rework it on your 3D creation software, to ensure that the final result meets your expectations.

Step 2 - Preparing your print

To prepare your print to send to your printer, you will need 3D printing software.

(Generally supplied with the SD card or USB key from all manufacturers when purchasing a 3D printer)

For FDM (plastic filament) printing - The most commonly used software is Cura and Simplify3D

For SLA (resin) printers - The most used software is Lychee Slicer and Chitubox

(At efikeco we use Simplify 3D & chitubox)

In general, we recommend that you inform yourself and watch various tutorials on YouTube including the Flashforge channel. This will allow you to create your printing profiles according to your printer and your software and the material used for your printing. Please do not hesitate to contact us if you need support on this matter.

Your 3D print preparation program (slicer) transforms your 3D model (STL) into instructions for your 3D printer (g-code). The g-code will be specific to your printer and the adjustment determined earlier in your slicer. It is also at this step that you add your printing supports so that nothing is printed in a vacuum (the Benchy, like the calibration cube, does not need supports to be printed correctly)

Step 3 – Preparing the Printer

Once your g-code has been created, you will be able to send it to your printer.

You will have several choices which will depend on your usage preferences and the connectivity of your printer.

SD card / WIFI / Bluetooth / Raspberry PI via (octoprint) / direct connection via USB

Of course, you also need to physically prepare your printer:

-Check your wiring, prepare your tray (leveling)

-Check that the plastic flows well and that the nozzle is very clean

-Check that there is enough material (generally your slicer has already given you a good idea of ​​the quantity needed).

-We also advise you to check the latest updates from your printer manufacturer on their website.

Step 4 - Start Printing

With this last step you launch the g-code file via your printer's menu which will control your printing.

We advise you to carefully monitor the first layers of printing.

For resin prints, check that the first layers remain well attached to the plate when it is raised. Normally, by having followed these different steps, you will have in your hands your first printed objects and the satisfaction of going from a virtual 3D object to a real object.

What types of printing do we sell?

Filament printing

3D Fused Filament Deposition ( FDM ) printers involve melting a material, most often filament with a plastic base. The material passes through an extrusion nozzle heated between 170 and 260°C and is deposited layer after layer on the plate (heated or not), so as to gradually build the desired object.

With fused deposition printers the melted filament wire that is extracted is lightly applied (therefore pressed) onto the previous layer. This results in an inevitable streak/stratum effect for layer heights greater than 40/50 microns. Below 40 microns, however, this effect tends to disappear due to the thinness of the deposited layer.


Using an FDM 3D printer will generally be suitable for most uses and users due to its ease of use, its versatility and the cost of the machine and materials. Some printers also provide exceptional quality renderings.

Resin print

Printers using stereolithography ( SLA ) also build objects layer by layer. However, instead of a tray that descends with each print layer, here the tray is initially submerged in a tray of resin. An ultraviolet laser photo-cures (cures) the liquid resin layer by layer as the platen lifts to extract the solidified portion of the desired object from the liquid resin.
With printers using stereolithography, the laser or UV light homogeneously hardens the liquid resin. Here, even with printing at 100 microns layer height, the streak effect is almost non-existent because there is no compression of the material. As a result, your 3D printed parts on an SLA printer are much smoother and more precise.


The SLA printer is clearly oriented towards fine detail and quality of external rendering, as well as for printing the smallest parts. On the other hand, use is more complex and involves greater time and maintenance constraints.

Choose your type of 3D filament – ​​PLA or PETG?


PLA and PETG are two of the most common materials in the world of 3D printing thanks to their ease of printing, good result, and wide color gamut. PLA (lactic acid polyacid) is an ideal polymer for 3D printing due to its low handling temperatures , 18 210 ºC extruder and 0-50 ºC base, low thermal contraction , and the absence of odor during printing. Biodegradable and at very low prices, it is therefore not surprising that PLA is the most consumed material in the world of FDM 3D printing.

PLA and PETG show many similar properties . At the mechanical level, PETG has a better behavior, with an elastic modulus much superior to PLA, but as a disadvantage PETG is more easily scratched. In thermal resistance, copolyester reaches a value of 8 ºC, lower than ABS (100 ºC) but it is higher than the vast majority of PLA (60 ºC).

At the time of post-processing , PLA is simpler, if we want to paint a room only, we must choose an acrylic paint, if we want to glue them, we must choose a cyanoacrylate glue ( PrintGlue ), on the other hand the post processing of PETG continues to be a complex process. When parts are made for outdoors, PETG is more resistant to UV, rain and cold , although solutions exist such as the Plastimperm F10 to waterproof parts made with PLA.